I’m lucky enough to have called Yorkshire home for most of the last decade. As part of my goal to summit the Dales 30 – the 30 highest peaks in the Yorkshire Dales – I recently went for a glorious hike up Great Shunner Fell and Lovely Seat. Straddling the border between Wensleydale and Swaledale, there are different routes up these fells. I chose to start from Wensleydale and walk them as a loop. Here’s my guide to hiking this beautiful route!
Hike Overview: Great Shunner Fell and Lovely Seat
Distance: 11.6 miles
Time: 6 to 7.5 hours
Elevation Gain: 644 meters
What to Pack for the Hike
This route goes through a fairly remote part of the Yorkshire Dales, where there are no official paths. Sturdy hiking boots with ankle support are best as the terrain can be very boggy (I speak from experience). I also recommend hiking poles. Warm, waterproof layers are essential, and don’t forget a hat, sunscreen, plenty of food and snacks, and lots of water. As the route goes across pathless terrain, you NEED a map. I use the OS Maps app for all my hikes in the UK – having a subscription means you can download routes to use offline. Otherwise, bring a paper map and compass. I also recommend a power bank and waterproof phone case.
Starting the Hike Up Great Shunner Fell
There are several routes up Great Shunner Fell, but the easiest and most direct route is from Hardraw. There is parking (free/by donation) in laybys just outside Hardraw village – these are limited and can fill up fast on busy days! Follow the Pennine Way all the way up to the summit. The path, much of which is laid with flagstones, is easy to follow. It took me just about two hours from leaving to reach the summit of Great Shunner Fell.
The views on the way up here were just spectacular! So much of the classic Yorkshire Dales scenery that I love – green rolling hills, punctuated with zigzag edges of drystone walls and dotted with sheep. There is a little shelter at the summit cairn, so give yourself time to enjoy the view.
Descending Down to Buttertubs Pass
There is no public footpath down from Great Shunner Fell to Buttertubs Pass. But on a clear day with good visibility, it’s fairly straightforward to navigate. Leave the Pennine Way at the summit and head down, following faint paths and the fenceline, to reach Little Shunner Fell. It took me about 25 minutes from Great Shunner Fell to Little Shunner Fell. From here, continue following the fences (keep the fenceline on your right) to get down to Buttertubs Pass. There are fantastic views down to Swaledale on one side and Wensleydale on the other side from here.
Summiting Lovely Seat
Buttertubs Pass is one of the most scenic roads in the Yorkshire Dales. Once you’ve reached the road, you’ll cross it and head up the faint footpath to Lovely Seat. Note that there is no public footpath here, but this is open access area. Be aware of any land closures – part of this route had actually been closed the day before I went! The trek up to Lovely Seat is a bit of a slog, but it’s not very long. Once you reach the top you’re rewarded with more stunning views. Lovely Seat has its very own lovely seat, which makes for an excellent lunch or snack stop. It took me exactly 30 minutes from Buttertubs Pass to reach the top of Lovely Seat. Spend some time here soaking up the views!
Finishing the Walk in Hardraw
The descent from Lovely Seat is where this route gets… interesting. If the weather and visibility isn’t on your side, I recommend retracing your steps down Lovely Seat to Buttertubs Pass, and following the road back to Hardraw. If you’re confident in your navigation skills and want a bit of an adventure, set off south down the pathless landscape.
Thankfully, the weather was dry and I had excellent visibility when I did this walk. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have bothered trekking through the pathless bog. It was a bit of a sufferfest! You’ll come across grouse butts, which provide some direction. But a lot of this section of the walk is just traversing pathless, boggy ground and hoping for the best. Eventually, you’ll reach a bridleway, which you can take to a track that leads back to Buttertubs Pass. Enjoy the views of Wensleydale from the road here! Then simply follow the road back to Hardraw. It took me just under 2 hours from leaving Lovely Seat to get back to my car just outside Hardraw. All in all, this walk took me 6.5 hours, including two relaxing breaks at the summits for food.
Planning Your Trip to Wensleydale
This walk starts in Hardraw, which is well-known for its beautiful waterfall. Hardraw Force is the highest single-drop waterfall (above ground) in England at about 100 feet tall, and was famously featured as a film location in Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves. The waterfall is on private land and there is an admission charge of £4 per person to visit. The Green Dragon pub is an excellent pub in Hardraw, with a welcoming atmosphere, stone floors, and a cozy fire. Teesside airport is the closest airport to this part of the Yorkshire Dales – Leeds Bradford airport is another option. I use Skyscanner to find the best flight deals. Considering travel insurance for your trip? World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 adventure activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.
Hawes is the largest hub in Wensleydale, so it may make sense to base yourself there. The Little White Bus travels between Gayle and Garsdale station, and connects Hawes and Hardraw. If you’re staying in Hawes and don’t have a car (and don’t want to add on extra distance to this walk), you can take the bus. Otherwise, you’ll need a car to reach Hardraw. Looking for tours in the Yorkshire Dales? Check out these options!
Where to Stay in Wensleydale
Staying around Hawes or Hardraw is the best option for doing this walk – although I did it as a long day trip from York. Here are a few options for places to stay!
- Budget: YHA Hawes – clean and comfortable accommodation with both dorms and private rooms, a lounge, communal kichen, and on-site bar
- Mid-range: The Green Dragon Inn – cozy, cheerful rooms at this classic historic Yorkshire pub, ranging in size from standard rooms to suites and apartments
- Mid-range: The White Hart Inn, Hawes – a lovely pub in Hawes offering spotless rooms and a delicious breakfast, plus super friendly staff
- Luxury: Simonstone Hall Hotel – a historic, boutique property just outside of Hawes with luxurious rooms and a highly rated restaurant and bar
- Luxury: Stone House Hotel – a historic country house, dating back to 1908, with oak paneling and log fires in the pub and plush, modern rooms
Wensleydale is a fantastic part of the Yorkshire Dales to visit, with plenty of walks and waterfalls, plus some of the best cheese in the country. The hike up Great Shunner Fells is gorgeous – add on Lovely Seat for a fun adventure! I hope this post helps planning your walk on this route in the Yorkshire Dales.
Have you done this hike in the Yorkshire Dales before?
You might also like my posts:
The BEST Places to Visit in the Yorkshire Dales
Hawes, Hardraw Force, and More: Hiking in Wensleydale
A Quick Guide to Aysgarth Falls in the Yorkshire Dales
Hiking Ingleborough from Clapham in the Yorkshire Dales
The Prettiest Villages to See in Swaledale
How to Spend a Weekend Around the Howgills, Cumbria
What to See in Malham in the Yorkshire Dales
All of my Yorkshire posts!
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