I’ve made it no secret that Scotland is one of my favorite places in the world. I simply love this country – and I was lucky enough to spend a few days road tripping the far northwest Scottish Highlands this summer. While I’d been to the area when I did the North Coast 500 back in 2020, this trip featured one very important stop that I’d missed the first time: Handa Island. This was such a unique experience and well worth visiting if you’re traveling this way! Here’s everything you need to know about visiting Handa Island.
Where is Handa Island?
Handa Island is in the far northwest corner of Scotland, accessed from Tarbet near Scourie. This is a remote part of Scotland, so come prepared! It’s about a 1.5-hour drive north of Ullapool, and just under an hour from Durness. Handa Island is owned by the Scottish Wildlife Trust and is open for visits from April to September.
How to Get to Handa Island
Handa Island is accessible by ferry from Tarbet, which runs from Monday to Saturday (no ferries on Sundays). The ferry takes about 10 minutes. The first ferry of the day is at 9:00am, and the last ferry leaves Tarbet for Handa Island at 1:30pm. The last ferry usually leaves Handa Island around 5:00pm. Tickets cost £25 per person (£10 for children under 14, and free for children under 5) and are payable in CASH ONLY! Be sure to bring cash with you, I can’t stress this enough!! There is no pre-booking, simply turn up and it’s on a first come, first served basis. Note that the ferry is weather dependent, and crossings can be canceled if the weather is bad.
I got to Tarbet around 8:00am, and was on the first boat at 9:00am. Parking was easy when I got there, but it filled up by the time I left on the boat – coming back around 2:00pm, the village was rammed! It definitely pays to get here early if you can.
When is the Best Time of Year to Visit Handa Island?
Handa Island is only open for visitors from April to September. The best time to see the seabirds – especially the puffins! – is in from May to July. Be sure to check with Handa Ferry to see when the first and last trip of the season is.
What to Do on Handa Island
The most popular thing to do on Handa Island is hike the loop trail around the island. This is about 4 miles long – but there is a LOT to see here! The adventure starts with a welcome brief by the rangers, who explain some ground rules for visiting and share info on what to see.
There is a small visitor center with a shop (honesty box style!), and one compostable toilet just a short distance from the beach where the boat lands. Keep in mind this is the only toilet on the island! The trail is easy to follow, with boardwalks in some places. Please keep to the path/boardwalk as you explore the island.
Handa Island is best known for its incredible wildlife, particularly seabirds. Over 200,000 seabirds nest on the cliffs here! Of course, I was there for the puffins – I just love them! But there are also an incredible number of guillemots, razorbills, fulmars, and kittiwakes, plus bonxies (great skuas). Besides seabirds, you might see otters, dolphins, or minke whales, too.
There are usually lots of skuas around Swaabie Loch – it’s best to admire these from afar, as the birds have a habit of trying to divebomb/scalp you if you get too close to their nests. Puffin Bay is where I saw the best puffins – it was just unbelievable! There were loads of seabirds around the Great Stack, too. It was very foggy when I went, but thankfully it lifted just enough to see the birds and gave the whole experience a mysterious atmosphere.
Even though the trail around the island is just over 4 miles, most people will spend at least 3 hours on Handa Island. If it’s nice weather, you could even go for a (chilly) dip at the beach!
What to Pack for Your Trip
Handa Island is a remote location. The island itself has no facilities besides the compostable toilet, and no shelter besides the visitor center. Bring warm clothing and waterproof layers, sturdy hiking boots, and all the food and water you’ll need for the day. I’d also highly recommend bringing a pair of binoculars to see the seabirds. There are some binoculars available to rent at the visitor center shop if you forget. And don’t forget your camera!
Where to Stay Around Handa Island
No overnight stays are allowed on Handa Island. If you want to stay in Tarbet itself, there’s the Handa Pod; the Shorehouse Restaurant dishes up tasty seafood in the village from Monday to Friday. Scourie is the most convenient place to stay for a trip to Handa Island with more accommodation options and facilities. There is a big campsite, Scourie Caravan and Campsite, with an unbeatable location right on the water. There is also a small Spar shop on site, along with a gas station. If you don’t want to camp, Scourie Lodge and Gardens is a good choice, or else there’s a number of guesthouses and B&Bs around the village.
Planning Your North Coast 500 Trip
Handa Island is located on the North Coast 500 route, which is one of the best road trips in all of Scotland. This is a very remote part of the country though, so you’ll want to be prepared for your trip! Accommodation is limited and can get booked up months in advance, so plan your overnight stops well of time. There is limited phone signal, so be sure to download GoogleMaps offline before you leave, and have a road atlas or physical maps as a backup.
There are a lot of single-track roads in this part of Scotland, meaning the road is only wide enough for one vehicle. If you meet another vehicle, you’ll need to use a passing place. Remember that your closest passing place might be behind you, and you’ll need to reverse into it! Be a courteous driver – wave or flash your lights as a thank you if someone stops for you to pass. If you notice a line of cars piling up behind you, pull over when it’s safe and let them pass. The road from the A894 to Tarbet (where you’ll park for a trip to Handa Island) is a single-track road, with a number of passing places. I also recommend using this interactive map of the public toilets in the area.
If you’re planning on hiking or camping along the North Coast 500, read up on the Scottish Outdoor Access Code. Leave no trace, and respect these beautiful places that we’re lucky enough to visit.
You can watch my reel about Handa Island on Instagram!
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Handa Island was a destination I’ve been dreaming of for years. I unfortunately missed out when I was doing the North Coast 500, so I jumped at the opportunity to go back for a visit this year! I hope this post helps planning your trip to Handa Island.
Have you visited Handa Island or traveled the North Coast 500?
You might also like my posts:
A 7-Day Itinerary for Scotland’s North Coast 500 Road Trip
What You Need to Know About the North Coast 500 in Scotland Before You Go
Orkney: What You Need to Know Before You Go
The Isle of Arran: A Guide for Visiting Scotland in Minature
What to See on the Isle of Mull and Iona in Scotland
Isle of Mull Daytrip: Staffa and Puffin-Watching on Lunga
All of my Scotland posts!
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