UPDATED JULY 2023! While so many of my travel plans for 2020 were canceled due to the pandemic, I tried to make the most of the year and find the silver lining. For me, the silver lining of last summer (when I should have been spending a month in Minnesota with my family) was definitely my road trip to Scotland! We spent a week doing the North Coast 500 route along the very tip of Scotland. It was nothing short of incredible! This post is a full itinerary on what you should see and do along the North Coast 500, my favorite stops, and how much driving we did each day. Here is my 7-day itinerary for the North Coast 500!

EDIT: I took this trip in August-September 2020, and this post was written and ready to publish before my marriage ended. I have decided not to edit the original post.

What is the North Coast 500?

The North Coast 500 is a 516-mile scenic route along the north coast of Scotland. It starts and ends in Inverness. It was launched in 2015 and is sometimes referred to as “Scotland’s Route 66.” Regardless of which way around the coast you go, it truly is a spectacular trip and one to put on the bucket list! You should have an absolute minimum of 5 days. But I’d really recommend at least 7 days – especially if you want to do any hiking. We spent 7 days, however we easily could have spent 10-14 days on the North Coast 500! Check out my post on things you should know on the North Coast 500 for my top tips on driving the NC500, where to stay, the best time of year to go, and more!

What Should I Pack For the North Coast 500?

Check out my blog post on what to pack for the North Coast 500! But hiking boots or sturdy footwear, a waterproof rain jacket, rain pants, and a road map of Scotland are essential. Don’t forget midge spray! Especially in summer, the midges in Scotland can be horrendous. I recommend Smidge spray. You can also check out my outdoor gear guide.

Resources For the North Coast 500

While of course blogs are amazing resources, there are a few websites to bookmark if you are doing the North Coast 500 around Scotland!

NC500 App – first of all, download the official NC500 app (Google Play // Apple Store). This has loads of information on things to see and do on the way! You can also check out the website.

OS Maps – I use the OS Maps app on pretty much every hike I do in the UK. You can download routes or areas in advance, and use them offline. There is a small annual fee for the subscription service – which I think is absolutely worth it – but you can also do a 7-day free trial.

Highlands Public Conveniences – this handy site has an interactive map to see all of the public toilets in the Highlands. This was simply a lifesaver! All of the toilets I went to on here were free, and ladies every single one had toilet paper praise be!

Scottish Outdoor Access Code – if you are planning on hiking or camping on the North Coast 500 (and I think you should!), make sure to read up on the Scottish Outdoor Access Code. This gives the guidelines for how to respect the outdoors – the important thing is to always remember leave no trace.

Walk Highlands – a fantastic website full of excellent walks around the Highlands, I used this site on pretty much every hike I did on the North Coast 500.

Google Maps (Offline) – we downloaded an offline version of Google Maps and it worked great for us, although we probably used our road atlas more. Keep in mind there isn’t phone signal (or wifi) for large parts of the North Coast 500 – this is a great chance to disconnect, so don’t plan on relying solely on your phone.

Considering travel insurance for your trip? World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 adventure activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.

If you’re not wanting to drive (or plan!) the entire trip, here are a few options for group tours that you could join that take in the North Coast 500.

Information On My Itinerary

I planned this itinerary with a focus on the west coast of Scotland, as I knew I wanted to do more hiking along the north and west coasts. Some of the days we had 3-4 hours of driving. Some days we only had 1 hour. As we love walking and being outdoors, we therefore had a very busy first day driving up from Inverness. If I could go back in time, I’d split this section of the North Coast 500 into two days. I also had my heart set on wild camping at Sandwood Bay, which meant we had few more relaxed days to accommodate this. In general, my priorities for this trip were scenery, beaches, hikes, and the outdoors! If I cared more about foodie or shopping experiences, it would have been a different trip and would be a different itinerary.

We wild camped for the entirety of our trip – wild camping is legal everywhere in Scotland (with the exception of the Loch Lomond byelaws) and this was an incredible way to travel. It saved money and made for a low budget for the North Coast 500. But it was also about freedom: it meant that we could push on if we still had the energy, as we had no booked accommodation or check-in time to meet. Alternately, if we were tired, we could find a camping spot and (sometimes) set up a bit early.

If I had stayed in B&B or hotel accommodation, which is mainly clustered around towns and villages, this would also be a different itinerary. There have been lots of discussions about bad behavior with wild campers on the NC500 since I did this trip and this post was published. It is imperative that you follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, and LEAVE NO TRACE. If you cannot commit to the Outdoor Access Code and leaving no trace, do not wild camp.

So for spectacular scenery, camping, and outdoor adventures, this is the North Coast itinerary for you!

A 7-Day Itinerary For the North Coast 500

Day 1: Inverness to Keiss Beach

Mileage: 149 miles

Driving Time: 3 hours 50 minutes

The Black Isle

This underrated area just outside of Inverness is a great first stop on the North Coast 500. We spent most of our first morning here! Don’t miss Fortrose Cathedral, and the walk out to the Fairy Glen Falls near Rosemarkie. Chanonry Point is one of the best places to see dolphins! And Black Isle Brewery is great for stocking up on beers for the road trip. This would be an excellent daytrip from Inverness and I easily could have spent a full day here – but if you’re doing the NC500, maybe just plan on a half-day.

Fyrish Monument

This wasn’t something I included in my original itinerary in 2020, but have since gone back up the coast and done this hike. This is definitely worth a stop! The Fyrish Monument is located near Alness, and dates back to 1783. The views from the top over Cromaty firth and the mountainous countryside are spectacular. The hike is approximately 3.75 miles long, and took me 1.5 hours to complete as an out-and-back. If I could redo my North Coast 500 itinerary, I would break up this first day into two days to have more time for this walk!

Pink House (Loch Glass)

The Pink House on Loch Glass has become Insta-famous in the last few years. It doesn’t have a name listed on OS Maps, but it’s sometimes called Culzie Lodge. Most people just refer to it as the Pink House. It’s located 5.5 miles from Evanton, and 26 miles from Inverness. Park outside the gates at Eileanach Lodge – it’s about a 30-minute walk (one-way) through the forest to get to the house. This is a great choice if you’re looking for a hike to stretch your legs on the North Coast 500!

Dornoch and Dornoch Beach

Dornoch makes a perfect stop along your first day of the NC500. This is a pretty little town, dominated by its cathedral and castle (the latter of which has been renovated into a hotel). There are a few cafes and pubs, although unfortunately Cocoa Mountain Café (sister café to the one in Durness) was closed when we visited. Dornoch Beach is also lovely – there are beautiful sand dunes leading out to a large sandy beach. There is free parking at the main car park, and also free parking at the beach.

Dunrobin Castle

Dunrobin Castle was probably my favorite stop on our first day of the NC500! This is the largest castle/stately house in the Northern Highlands, and one of Britain’s oldest continuously inhabited houses (dating back to the 1300s). It is designed in the style of a French chateau, and has been home to the Earls and Dukes of Sutherland for centuries. While the castle interior is beautiful, the gardens surrounding the castle really stole the show. It’s a beautiful area to explore, with several fountains and views out to sea. We even lucked out and got to see a falconry show while we were here! This is one of the most popular stops on the NC500 and with good reason.

Badbea

About half an hour up the road from Dunrobin Castle is a small car park with an info panel. If you have time, I highly recommend stretching your legs and walking out to see the ruins of Badbea, a former clearance village. The Highland Clearances (where landlords turned human tenets off their land to clear it for more-profitable livestock) left their mark all over Scotland, and Badbea is a great place to learn more about this. You can still see the ruins of buildings on the cliffs overlooking the sea. It’s only about a 5-10 minute walk to the Badbea monument from the parking.

Whaligoe Steps

The Whaligoe Steps might be a bit tricky to find, as there is no longer a signpost from the main road (it’s opposite the turn-off for the Cairn of Get). However, this man-made stairway of approximately 330 steps is a real highlight on this part of the North Coast 500. There is a natural harbor here and used to be popular with fishing boats. There were loads of jellyfish in the water when I was here, and the rocky cliffs were beautiful! Just remember that you have to walk up the stairs at the end, I was definitely out of breath by the end! The parking area is very small here, with room for about 6-8 cars.

Castle of Old Wick

The Castle of Old Wick is slightly outside of Wick itself, and is about an 800-meter walk from the parking area. Dating back to the 1100s, there isn’t much left of the Castle of Old Wick today. However, I still really enjoyed this walk out along the cliffs to see the castle.

Wick

Wick isn’t a very big place, and I know some people drive straight through it on the NC500. However, I definitely recommend a short stop here for two reasons! The first is to visit Old Pulteney Distillery, which has both a visitor center and shop in Wick. Wick is also home to the shortest street in the world: Ebenezer Place, which is less than 7 feet across!

Castle Sinclair Girnigoe

On the far outskirts of Wick, you can find the ruin of Castle Sinclair Girnigoe on a peninsula surrounded by the sea. It is technically the ruins of two separate castles, Castle Girnigoe and Castle Sinclair, and was historic home to the Sinclair family. The ruins are about a 10-minute walk across a field from the parking area, and you can explore a few areas of the castle ruins. There are lots of info panels to give you a better idea about the history of the castle complex, and there are photos and diagrams of what it would have looked like in its heyday. Overall, there is more here than the Castle of Old Wick, so if I had to pick between the two I would definitely pick Castle Sinclair Girnigoe!

There were several other whisky distilleries that we chose not to visit on this leg of the trip. Glen Ord, Glenmorangie, and Dalmore are just a few of the distilleries you’ll find on this trip. However, we really wanted to see as much as possible in this first day to give us time for hiking later on in the trip. And remember, Scotland has a different legal alcohol limit for driving than the rest of the UK – although as far as I’m aware, many distilleries will give you samples as takeaways if you ask.

Accommodation Recommendations: I understand not everyone wants to wild camp (or camp) every night! So if that’s you, I’d recommend staying in or around Wick this night.

Booking.com

Campsite Recommendations: The nearest campsite around here is Wick Caravan & Camping Site.

Day 2: Keiss Beach to Coldbackie Sands

Mileage: 83 miles

Driving Time: 2 hours 35 minutes

Keiss Castle

If you’re up for a walk along the coast, park up at Keiss Harbour and walk out to see the dramatic ruins of Keiss Castle. The castle is perched right on the cliffside, and has been standing since the late 16th/early 17th century. You can’t actually go into the ruins for safety reasons, and the footpath can be muddy, but it’s an iconic sight along the North Coast 500.

Duncansby Stacks

Seeing the Duncansby Stacks was a huge highlight for me on the NC500! Duncansby Head is the most northeasterly part of mainland Britain, and these funky sea stacks are so dramatic. It’s about a 10-15 minute walk from the car park out to the cliffs near the stacks – there are lots of sea birds in this area. You can also see Duncansby Lighthouse which is more or less right next to where you park.

John O’ Groats

One of the most famous places on the NC500 (and in Scotland in general!) is John O’Groats. Well-known as the end (or start) point for the end-to-end journey that stretches 874 miles to Land’s End in Cornwall, there isn’t actually that much in John O’Groats. Besides the famous signpost, the old hotel and colorful houses, there are a few shops, a café or two, and John O’Groats Brewery.

However, many people come to John O’Groats to take a daytrip to Orkney. Unfortunately, due to the pandemic the daytrips to Orkney weren’t running for the season when we did the NC500. I ended up visiting Orkney more recently and it was incredible! You can find more information on Orkney tours from John O’Groats Ferries or look at the tours below.

Orkney

If you have extra time though, I highly recommend a detour off the North Coast 500 to visit Orkney. You can visit as a daytrip from John O’Groats in summer, but you really need to spend a few days there to get a real feel for this unique archipelago. On a 3-day trip, you’ll be able to see the main sites around the Mainland, the Barrier Islands and South Ronaldsay. If you have another day or two, add on a visit to Hoy. But it’s best if you have 7-8 days so you can truly enjoy Orkney. You’ll have time to fully explore the Mainland, the Barrier Islands and South Ronaldsay. You’ll also be able to take the ferry over to Hoy, and visit some of the northern islands, like Westray and Papa Westray. Read up on my 8-day Orkney itinerary here!

Mey Castle

Unfortunately, Mey Castle was closed when we did the NC500 in 2020. However, this castle is another popular stop as it’s well-known as the residence of Elizabeth, the Queen Mother. The gardens here are meant to be beautiful as well!

Dunnet Head

While many people think John O’Groats is the most northern point in Britain, that title actually belongs to Dunnet Head, just a few miles down the road. It is certainly worth the drive out to the lighthouse, and don’t miss the views from the short walk up to the viewing platform. You can see the Old Man of Hoy on Orkney!

Dunnet Beach

Dunnet Beach is a beautiful sandy beach, just a bit further on from Dunnet Head and off the A836 main road. Nearby is Dunnet Bay Distillery – gin fans this one is for you! You can stock up on their spirits or other goodies and gifts in the shop.

Wolfburn Distillery

There isn’t much to do in Thurso itself (although there is a big beach), so I’d recommend driving on and stopping at Wolfburn Distillery! Unfortunately, they were also closed when we visited (traveling in a post-coronavirus world isn’t easy!) but this is meant to be a fantastic whisky distillery. It’s also the most northern distillery on the mainland of Britain, so it’s certainly unique!

Strathy Beach

One of my favorite beaches on the NC500 was definitely Strathy Beach. This is a beautiful sandy beach, with a bit of a downhill walk from the parking area to the sea. It was so pretty though, and as a bonus they have a (free) public toilet if you need to go. I’ve even gone for a swim here! If you have time, you could also drive out a bit further to Strathy Lighthouse, right on the point. This is meant to be a bit quieter as a nice to catch a sunset!

Puffin Cove

This is definitely a hidden gem on the North Coast 500! At the border between Caithness and Sutherland (right by the border signs), there’s a layby with parking for a few cars. It’s about a 15-minute walk downhill to get to a secret cove – which is home to nesting puffins if you time your visit right! The best time to see puffins is between April and July/August; bring your binoculars to spot them here.

Coldbackie Sands

Another amazing beach on the North Coast 500! Coldbackie Sands can be easy to miss – there’s only a layby with room for 3ish cars, and it’s a steep hike downhill to get to the beach. But trust me, this is one beach you’ll want to see on the trip! It was so peaceful and the rocky outcrop was perfect for settling in with a book and watching the world go by.

Accommodation Recommendations: Tongue is your nearest main stopping point and there are a few accommodation options there including the Ben Loyal Hotel. There are also some options towards Bettyhill or Farr.

Booking.com

Campsite Recommendations: Craigdhu Caravan Camping Site near Bettyhill/Farr has great views (we drove past it!), however from the reviews it sounds like the toilets/facilities are subpar at best. I’d recommend the Kyle of Tongue Hostel and Holiday Park – the views are amazing here too, and friends of ours stayed and said it was really nice!

Day 3: Coldbackie Sands to Ceannabeine

Mileage: 50 miles

Driving Time: 1 hour 45 minutes

Castle Varrich

This is a great short walk on the NC500! Castle Varrich is mainly ruins now, although there is a new metal staircase that you can walk up that has wonderful views. It’s about a 1-hour walk (we were there and back again after about 50 minutes) on a footpath from the Ben Loyal hotel in Tongue. There are a few signs to point you the right direction, and there is (free) parking across the street from the hotel. If you’re not wanting to spend a full day walking, this is an excellent option!

Kyle of Tongue

The scenic bridge and road over the Kyle of Tongue is not to be missed on a NC500 trip. It seems like such a huge distance to cross but it really doesn’t take that long! There’s a place to pull over at the beginning for photos.

Maine House

This house is more or less in the middle of nowhere, about 5 miles from Tongue. There is a sign for a view/information off the main road, and it’s just a few minutes’ walk to the house. Maine House was one of the only establishments in the area between Tongue and Durness. While there’s a walk around the lake, the real reason I’d recommend stopping here is for the view of two of the North Coast 500’s most epic mountains: Ben Loyal and Ben Hope.

Loch Hope and Ben Hope

Ben Hope is the most northern Munro in Scotland, and 927 meters high! This was one of my favorite walks, and one of my favorite things that I did on the North Coast 500 – check out my blog post on hiking Ben Hope! The drive to the parking area isn’t for the faint-hearted (it’s a single-track road with very limited visibility and few passing places), the hike is one of the best on the NC500. While the path is very steep (both up and down), it’s well worth it for the views over the entire area – mountains, sea, beaches, and the chance to look down on Ben Loyal. The hike took us just under 4 hours total.

Dun Dornaigil Broch

This broch is thousands of years old – 2,300 years old, in fact. It’s only about a 2-minute drive further down the road from the parking for Ben Hope, so make sure you stop by! This broch’s interior is inaccessible and it has never been excavated, so there’s not much known about it.

Loch Eriboll

Some of my favorite parts of the scenic driving on this trip was around Loch Eriboll. Surrounded by epic mountain scenery, this sea loch is wonderful. There’s even a pretty almost-island, connected by a causeway, called Ard Neackie.

Ceannabeine Beach

Another of the North Coast 500’s stunning beaches, Ceannabeine Beach is just outside of Durness. It’s a bit of a walk down from the parking area next to the road to get to the actual beach. When we stopped there were quite a lot of people setting up to camp and some had already started to make fires – please remember that if a wild camping spot looks busy to choose another area, and to always leave no trace!

Ceannabeine Village Trail

The Ceannabeine Village Trail is a walking trail around the remains and ruins of Ceannabeine village. This was one of my favorite cultural/historical activities on the North Coast 500, so don’t miss it! I learned so much about the Highland Clearances, and the rebellion of the people of Durness when they learned they would be kicked off their land. It will only take about 30 minutes to walk around to all the information panels, but I really recommend this. You cannot visit the Scottish Highlands without learning about the Highland Clearances, and this trail gives a fascinating insight into the local history.

Accommodation Recommendations: You’re near enough to Durness that it makes the most sense to stay somewhere around there. The Smoo Cave Hotel, Mackay’s Rooms, or any of the B&Bs nearby would be good options! There’s also the Durness Smoo Youth Hostel, or the Lazy Crofter Bunkhouse (through Mackay’s).

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Campsite Recommendations: This would be a great night to stay at one of the most well-known campsites on the North Coast 500, Sango Sands. The epic location, overlooking the beautiful beach and the sea, is convenient as well for the shops and attractions around Durness.

Day 4: Ceannabeine to Sandwood Bay

Mileage: 27 miles

Driving Time: 1 hour

Smoo Cave

Smoo Cave is one of the most popular stops on the North Coast 500 route. It has one of the largest sea cave entrances in Britain, which is over 50 feet high. During normal times, you can take a boat tour of the cave – I wish this had been running when we went! You can find out information on that here. Smoo Cave was just about the only place on the entire trip that we struggled with parking – the car park here is small, and it’s popular enough that it was full when we went. There is a layby just down the road with a few spaces. Otherwise, park at the Durness Village Hall and it’s less than a 5-minute walk down the road back to the cave.

Sango Sands

If you got a spot at Sango Sands campsite, this is where you’ll wake up in the morning! However, regardless of whether you camp or stay here, Sango Sands is one of the best beaches on the North Coast 500 and well worth a stop.

John Lennon Memorial Garden

Did anyone else know there was a John Lennon Memorial Garden in Durness?! I had no idea!! Apparently he came to this area of Scotland on holidays as a kid. The Beatles song In My Life (which is one of my favorite Beatles songs of all time!) was inspired by this! There is a small and touching memorial garden to John Lennon next to the village hall in Durness. There is a brown sign on the A838 road.

Cocoa Mountain Café

It’s a bold claim to say “best hot chocolate in the country” but for Cocoa Mountain Café in Durness, I’m inclined to agree. The hot chocolate and the pastries were incredibly rich, the kind that melts in your mouth! It’s on the pricey side, but in my opinion it’s worth it for the heaps of chocolate you get.

Balnakeil Beach

Balnakeil Beach was one of my favorite beaches on the North Coast 500. The Durness Sand Dunes are a designated SSI, but the best area of Balnakeil Beach is a bit further away. Walk past the main beach/dunes, following the path to Faraid Head (it’s 2.5 miles from the car park). The turquoise color of the water, combined with the white sand and views out to Cape Wrath, make this beach a must-do on the North Coast 500.

Balnakeil Craft Village

The buildings here were built in the 1950s as a RAF early warning station, in event of nuclear attack during the Cold War. Today, the buildings have been developed into the Balnakeil Craft Village! Housing many different artists’ galleries, you can wander in between them and find some truly unique art and crafts here.

Durness Deep Time Geology Exhibition

I ended up wandering into this exhibit in the craft village by accident, but I’m really glad I did! It’s completely free and details how the local and regional geology changed in this part of Scotland over 3000 million years..

Cape Wrath

There are only two ways to access Cape Wrath: by ferry/minibus trip from Durness, and by hiking the Cape Wrath trail (it’s another 11 miles with no path from Sandwood Bay). As Cape Wrath is used by the Ministry of Defense, you do need to check in advance if it’s safe. Unfortunately, the ferry trips to Cape Wrath from Durness weren’t running in 2020 due to the pandemic. If you’re doing the North Coast 500, definitely set aside a half-day or most of a day to do the trip out to Cape Wrath. This is at the top of my Scotland bucket list, I’m desperate to go here! You can find out more information on visiting Cape Wrath here.

Sandwood Bay

How far would you walk to get to the most beautiful beach in Britain?! Well, the hike to Sandwood Bay is 4 miles, and is not to be missed. I first heard about this beach that was a 1-2 hour hike away from the nearest road, and was said to be one of the most beautiful beaches in the country – and I became kind of obsessed with visiting. Read my full blog post on Sandwood Bay here! The path is easy to follow out to the beach, and it is a phenomenal place for wild camping. It took us about 1 hour and 20 minutes one-way to get there. There are no facilities at the beach, so remember to come prepared and to pack out everything you bring in.

The sandy beach has views out to the Cape Wrath lighthouse (!), and to the Am Buachaille sea stack. It really was like a dream come true for me, and whether you want to go on a nice hike or want to see a beach – make sure to put Sandwood Bay on your bucket list. The area/path to the beach is maintained by the John Muir Trust. There is a car park in Blairmore, where there are toilets (yay!) and a freshwater tap.

Accommodation Recommendations: Sandwood Bay is a 4-mile hike from the nearest road, so there are no accommodations nearby. However, in this area (around Kinlochbervie) there are a few options. I actually had a full Scottish breakfast the next day from the Old School, which has accommodation too – I’d recommend staying there as it’s less than a 15-minute drive from the car park at Blairmore. You could also try some of the B&Bs near Kinlochbervie or Rhiconich.

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Campsite Recommendations: Again, there are no nearby campsites at Sandwood Bay, and none with facilities in the area. The nearest campsite with facilities will probably be the Scourie Caravan & Camping, although there is a campervan stopover in Kinlochbervie (no tents).

Day 5: Sandwood Bay to Knockan Nature Reserve/Stac Pollaidh

Mileage: 97 miles

Driving Time: 3 hours

Breakfast from Old School

If you’ve stayed out near Sandwood Bay, I’d highly recommend getting breakfast from the Old School on your way back to the A838 road! I had a full Scottish breakfast and it was excellent. They start serving breakfast from 10am – their full Scottish was £9.50 which included a tea/coffee.

The Rock Route from Durness to Ullapool

As you being driving south along the west coast of Scotland, keep an eye out for the Rock Route by the North West Highlands Geopark between Durness/Loch Eriboll and Ullapool. This is a set of 15 info panels detailing history and interesting geological facts about the landscapes. We pulled over to read almost all the panels, and I learned something from each one!

Handa Island

This excursion would take up most of a day, but if you’re interested in an island trip, you can visit Handa Island from Scourie. Handa Island is one of the best places to see puffins in the country! Unfortunately, these had already finished for the season due to the pandemic when we went. You can find out more information on the excursion here.

Kylesku Bridge

Welcome to Assynt! As the scenery turns from coastal beaches to craggy mountains, the Kylesku Bridge is one of the main landmarks on this part of the North Coast 500. The bridge was built in 1984 and there is a viewpoint where you can park right before the bridge.

Wailing Widow Falls

This is a spectacular waterfall, located right off the A894. At the bottom, there is parking for a few (2-3) cars, and you can walk through the gorge to see the waterfall. Otherwise, you can park at the top of the road (room for 10-12 cars), and walk over some pretty boggy ground to see it from the top. Loch na Gaiamhich runs down into this waterfall, and I’ve seen some pretty incredible drone shots from here on Instagram!

Clashnessie Falls

While Clashnessie Beach is quiet and peaceful, the real reason to drive out to Clashnessie is to see Clashnessie Falls. This waterfall cascades over the rock face – keep in mind you’ll probably get sprayed with a bit of water. Parking is at Clashnessie Beach, and it’s a 15-minute walk each way up the road and on a path to get to the waterfall (the footpath is signposted from the road).

Old Man of Stoer and Stoer Lighthouse

One of my favorite hikes of the entire North Coast 500 trip!! Wow. You can walk around Stoer Lighthouse, but I really recommend doing the hike out to see the Old Man of Stoer sea stack, and the view from the Point of Stoer. It took us about 40 minutes to hike to the Old Man of Stoer, and about 1.5 hours to hike back via the Stoer trig point back to the car at the Stoer Lighthouse car park. There is a faint path for most of the walk, although it is very boggy – you’ve been warned!

The views from the summit were my favorite of the trip and I could barely believe my eyes. You can see the coast and the sea, with all of Assynt in front of you. It’s easy enough to spot out some of Assynt’s most famous peaks, like the Quinang, Suilven, and An Teallach. I felt like I was in another world. Do not miss this hike and these views!!

Clachtoll Beach

Clachtoll Beach is a beautiful white sand beach and if you’re driving out to Stoer, you’ll drive past the turnoff for it. We saw someone about to go sea kayaking here – something I’d definitely want to do someday!

Achmelvich Bay

Assynt inspires you with the rocky mountain peaks, but it’s also home to incredible beaches. While Clachtoll Beach is worth a stop, Achmelvich Bay stole the show of Assynt’s beaches. Wow. I couldn’t believe what I was seeing – white sand, turquoise water, peace and quiet as a the waves crashed on the shore. Do not miss this beach on the North Coast 500!

Lochinver

The small town of Lochinver is a good stopping point as there’s several shops, a gas station, and (free) toilets. This is also the starting point for the hike to/up Suilven (more details here, it takes 7-9 hours). But the real reason you should visit Lochinver? To get pies from Lochinver Larder! These are touted as the best pies in the country – while I think that that title firmly belongs to the Rose and Crown in York, I can’t deny the pies were deliciously tasty. Combine that with a quaint seaside setting and harbor views, and I can honestly say I’d drive back to Lochinver just for another one of these bad boys.

Loch Assynt

As you drive the A837 to/from Lochinver, you’ll drive along Loch Assynt. This reminded me so much of places I’d been in northern Minnesota like the Boundary Waters! There are small islands dotted around the lake, and the views of the shoreline (with the backdrop of Assynt’s mountains) are stunning. There are a few laybys along the road that you can pull over in to get out and take photos.

Ardvreck Castle

This castle was built in the 16th century by the MacLeod Clan, and was ruined and destroyed by a fire in 1700s after changing hands to the MacKenzie Clan. There is a layby for parking, and it’s a short walk out to the castle ruins. While there’s not much left of the castle today, you can walk around the ruins and the views are excellent. I can see why they chose this location to build the castle – it’s easy to see anyone coming! There is also a beautiful little waterfall on the same side of the road as the parking layby.

Inchnadamph Bone Caves

Unfortunately I missed out on this, as it’s a 4km walk (roundtrip) from the parking area and the sign for the caves said “closed”–but as far as I’m aware, they’re open all day. There has been a variety of animal bones found in the Inchnadamph Bone Caves – including bears, wolves, reindeer, and more! Some of the bones date back to 47,000 BCE and the bones in the caves are the most complete record of the glacial period found in Scotland.

Knockan Crag Nature Reserve

We finished off our jam-packed day in Assynt by visiting the Knockan Crag Nature Reserve. For anyone interested in geology (or just nice views), definitely stop off here! There are (free) toilets here, and a few different options for short walks. The view over Assynt from the viewpoint is wonderful, and there is a 2km trail up over the top of the crag that should take about 1 hour.

Accommodation Recommendations: There isn’t much around here in terms of accommodation, although the Altnacealgach Motel does have good reviews. However if you can make it a bit further down the road you will find lots of options in and around Ullapool.

Booking.com

 

Campsite Recommendations: Just north of Ullapool is Ardmair Point Holiday Park, which has an unbeatable location for its seaside views! Otherwise if you’re wanting to camp in Ullapool itself, the nearest campsite will probably be Broomfield Holiday Park.

Day 6: Stac Pollaidh to Torridon

Mileage: 122 miles

Driving Time: 3 hours 30 minutes

Stac Pollaidh

One of the best hikes to do on the North Coast 500 is Stac Pollaidh. Stac Pollaidh is 614 meters high, and the hike takes about 2-3 hours. You can find more information on the hike here. Keep in mind that the car park is small, and there are very few alternative options for parking nearby as it’s a single-track road. Get there early! Unfortunately, it was pouring rain with no visibility when we showed up in the morning to do this hike, and we decided to skip it. I am so disappointed, but I know it was the right call on the day. But if you enjoy hiking, definitely put this walk on your North Coast 500 itinerary!

Ullapool

Ullapool is one of the main towns on the North Coast 500, and a big transport hub in the region – ferries leave here for the Outer Hebrides (Lewis and Harris). The town has lots of pubs, cafes, grocery stores, souvenir shops, a pretty harbor, and a museum. I got a delicious breakfast from the Tea Store, and loved watching the boats in the harbor in the morning sun.

Corrieshalloch Gorge

This gorge is 60 meters deep, and the waterfall (the Falls of Measach) is 46 meters high. The water drops down dramatically into the narrow gorge, which is 1 mile long. There is a swing bridge that crosses the gorge, and I definitely recommend walking out past the bridge to the viewpoint. Corrieshalloch Gorge is right by the main A835 road, but you’d have no idea it was there, hidden in the forest! The parking area was pretty busy when we went and we got one of the last spots – there is another layby a bit further away as a backup.

Gruinard Beach

While this beach itself isn’t quite as spectacular as some of the other beaches on the North Coast 500, I loved it for the view from the layby at the top of the road. You can see for miles here, out to Gruinard Island, and get an amazing look down at Gruinard Beach.

Mellon Udrigle Beach

This white sand beach is worth the drive out on the single-track road to get here. I liked this beach more than Gruinard Beach, as it’s more secluded and quieter. There is also a campsite and caravan park here – it must be so peaceful to wake up to that view!

Loch Ewe

I had absolutely no clue that Loch Ewe in the Northwest Highlands of Scotland played host to the Russian Arctic Convoy in World War II! But 80 years ago, this area would have been teeming with vessels and soldiers traveling to and from the area. The ships here took vital supplies to Russia via the Arctic on a dangerous journey. You can learn more about the history at the Russian Arctic Convoy Museum.

Firemore Beach

Sandy beaches, clear water, and no one around?! If that’s your idea of a dream, head out to Firemore Beach (near Cove) from Poolewe. This is another gorgeous beach to visit on the North Coast 500.

Russian Convoy Memorial Stone

To commemorate the soldiers who gave their lives for the war and made the ultimate sacrifice, there is a Russian Memorial Stone overlooking Loch Ewe at the end of the road from Poolewe in Cove. If you’re interested in military history, or just curious about the busy events of the area during WWII, I’d definitely recommend making the drive out here. This is one of the things I love about road tripping – we had no idea this was here until we stopped by the Russian Arctic Convoy Museum and they mentioned it!

Gairloch

This is a cute, small town not far from Poolewe. There’s two museums: the Gairloch Musuem, where you can learn all about the history of the land, and the Gairloch Marine Life Center (which also does cruises). There are a few shops in town including a tourist information center, and great views out to sea.

Loch Maree

As you drive down the A832, you’ll drive along the shore of Loch Maree. Surrounded by the Fisherfield mountains (the most remote Munros in Scotland, an 18-mile hike over two days to do them all), Slioch, and Beinn Eighe, the loch is home to an island nature reserve and some really scenic viewpoints along the road. You can stop by the Beinn Eighe Visitor Center (part of the Beinn Eighe Nature Reserve), and there are a few short walks you can do if you’re feeling up for it.

Victoria Falls

This pretty waterfall is located off the road along Loch Maree. The waterfall is named after Queen Victoria, who visited in 1877. Be aware, there are some nasty potholes on the road to the car park.

Road to Torridon

The road to Torridon has to be one of the most scenic stretches on the North Coast 500. The glen is surrounded by rocky mountains, following a rushing river, and supposedly a good place for spotting deer. The National Trust for Scotland is responsible for maintaining the estate.

Accommodation Recommendations: If you’re up for it, Torridon will have the most accommodation options. There is a hostel here (the Torridon Youth Hostel), as well as hotel/B&B accommodations too.

Booking.com

 

Campsite Recommendations: There is a campsite in Torridon near the hostel, this is tents only. This is probably the best option for the area. You could also stay at the Kinlochewe Caravan site, if you don’t drive through the Torridon estate. Please note that in the above photo of the tent, someone had made a firepit and had a fire at this location before. Always remember to leave no trace.

Day 7: Torridon to Lochcarron (End)

Mileage: 50 miles

Driving Time: 2 hours

Torridon

The village of Torridon has a few places to stay, a shop, and is a pretty quiet place. But it has to be one of the most scenic villages on the North Coast 500 route, and in the Highlands in general! The views of the mountains surrounding Upper Loch Torridon (a sea loch) are outstanding. On a peaceful morning a walk along the main road/lake shore is so refreshing.

Shieldag

Another of the prettiest villages in the Highlands is right down the road from Torridon – Shieldag! This village is much bigger than Torridon; there’s multiple places to stay, several shops, multiple cafes/restaurants, and great views over another sea loch to Shieldag Island.

Applecross Peninsula

Some of the best scenery we saw on the North Coast 500 was on the last day. Saving the best for last, a drive around Applecross Peninsula isn’t for the faint-hearted. However, the coastal views (out to the Isles of Skye, Raasay, and Rona) are magnificent. We also got caught in a Highland traffic jam – in a herd of Scottish coos making their way down the road! I was so looking forward to seeing some coos on our road trip and this was the best sighting I had.

Applecross

Applecross is a very small village – there’s not much there to be honest. However, there is a beach, gas station, toilets, hotel and B&Bs/cottages, a shop, and one or two options for food. Depending on where you’re headed at the end of the North Coast 500, this is a good chance to fill up your tank/stomach.

Bealach na Bà

Scottish Gaelic for “the pass of the cattle,” Bealach na Bà is one of the highlights of the North Coast 500. It’s the steepest road ascent in the entirety of the UK, rising from sea level up to 626 meters, and the third highest road in Scotland. This was the only road connecting Applecross with the rest of the country until the late 20th century!! There are many hairpin bends up this road over the mountains, and of course the road is a single-track road with passing places if you meet another car. There is a viewpoint, but unfortunately it was windy, rainy, and we were in the clouds so unable to see anything at all!

Adam loved driving this road – I could barely keep my eyes open it was so nerve-wracking! Do not attempt this drive unless you are a confident, experienced driver, and are used to driving on single-track roads. Large vehicles and caravans should not attempt this drive. The road is usually impassable in winter. All that being said – if you know what you’re doing, it’s definitely an experience! We even managed a view down toward the sea as we were descending the other side. Oh, and we did even see people biking all the way up here!!!

   

The North Coast 500 route normally ends in Inverness – you carry on driving through Lochcarron on the A896 and onwards all the way back to your starting point. This adds on about an extra 65 miles and another 1.5 hours of driving. However, depending on where you’re going next, you can easily carry on your Scotland adventure and make the trip to the Isle of Skye, or further south to Fort William and Glencoe. If you head towards Fort William, you could even take the Jacobite Steam Train! We decided to drive on to Plockton, where we had a delicious fresh seafood lunch before starting the journey back home.

North Coast 500 Summary

The North Coast 500 is one of the most phenomenal road trips I’ve ever done. Scotland is spectacular, but doing this trip really showed me just how many incredible places there are. The scenery is so dramatic and many times throughout the trip I had to stop and take a breath to believe that what I was seeing was real. I often felt like I was at the end of the earth. Nothing around but sea and sky, at the very tip of the country.

The North Coast 500 isn’t a trip everyone will enjoy. If you prefer city breaks and the hustle and bustle of conveniences, this might not be for you. However, I do think it should be on everyone’s bucket list in order to truly experience the beauty of Scotland. It is one of the most magical destinations and it will steal your heart.

If you’re considering doing this trip, I cannot recommend it enough. It was simply incredible, and I feel so lucky to have gotten to do it!

Have you done the North Coast 500? Is this trip on your bucket list?!

You might also like my posts:

What You Need to Know About the North Coast 500 in Scotland Before You Go

What to Pack For the North Coast 500 in Scotland

How Much Does it Cost to Do the North Coast 500 in Scotland?

The Best Beaches on Scotland’s North Coast 500 Route

Hiking Ben Hope: Scotland’s Most Northern Munro

Sandwood Bay: Hiking to Britain’s Most Beautiful Beach

What to See and Do in and Around Inverness

The Complete Orkney Guide: An 8-Day Itinerary for the Orkney Islands

A 7-Day Itinerary for Hiking the West Highland Way

12 Tips For Planning Your Scottish Highlands Road Trip

My Outdoor Gear Guide For Hiking and Camping in the UK

All of my Scotland posts!

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