Orkney… one of the most magical trips of my lifetime. This part of Scotland has been on my bucket list for years. After my 2020 trip was canceled due to the pandemic, I planned the trip of my dreams for June. This was one of the most exciting, fascinating, and rewarding destinations I have ever been to. Orkney is one of those places where you have to want to go there – you don’t just end up there by accident, you have to choose to visit. It may take a bit of work to get to Orkney, but trust me – it is so, so worth it. To prepare for your trip, here are all the things you need to know about Orkney before you go!

Where is Orkney?

Orkney is an archipelago of 70 islands, off the northeast coast of Scotland. There are 20 inhabited islands – the rest are uninhabited. Orkney is approximately 10 miles away from the coast.

How do you get to Orkney?

You have two options to get to Orkney: fly into Kirkwall Airport, or take the ferry. You can check out Loganair for options for flying into Kirkwall – Edinburgh, Glasgow, Inverness, Aberdeen, and Sumburgh (Shetland) all have direct flights. There are four options for the ferry to Orkney.

• Scrabster to Stromness, with North Link Ferries

This is the journey I chose to take. I drove up to Scrabster (revisiting some of my favorite places on the North Coast 500!), then took the ferry to Stromness. The journey is approximately 1.5 hours. A return trip for one adult with a car, and an overnight cabin on the early morning departure from Stromness (including breakfast), cost £201.20. I loved this particular journey because we sailed past the Old Man of Hoy! If you don’t have your own car and are traveling as a foot passenger, Thurso is the nearest train station. Take Bus X99 from Thurso to the ferry terminal in Scrabster.

• Gills Bay to St. Margaret’s Hope with Pentland Ferries

This journey takes 1 hour. Depending on your itinerary on Orkney, if you’re visiting South Ronaldsay at the end of your trip it may make sense to take the ferry from Scrabster to Stromness, and then from St. Margaret’s Hope back to Gills Bay. Or take Pentland Ferries both ways, whatever is best with your travel route.

• Aberdeen to Kirkwall with North Link Ferries

North Link Ferries run an overnight ferry service from Aberdeen to Lerwick on Shetland, which stops at Kirkwall. The journey time is approximately 6 hours – typically you’ll get into Kirkwall just before midnight. If you don’t have your own car and are in the northeastern part of Scotland, this is a good option – Aberdeen has lots of train connections, including a direct route from London.

• John O’Groats to Burwick with Jog Ferry

This is a foot-passenger-only ferry during the summer months, which operates from John O’Groats to Burwick. It only takes 40 minutes – you can book a tour of Orkney with them too if you like.

What is driving like on Orkney? What are the roads like?

Driving on Orkney is, for the most part, a breeze. All the main roads on the Mainland are one lane each way. Most roads outside of the main ones tend to be single-track, with passing places. Most of the passing places are clearly marked. The roads tend to be very straight, with good visibility of oncoming traffic – this makes passing/overtaking slower traffic fairly easy. That being said, it’s always polite to pull over and let other cars pass you if you’re driving slowly, and notice a build-up. Roads on the other islands tend to be single-track – for example, the road to Rackwick Bay on Hoy is single-track.

Mainland Orkney is, generally, quick to get around. It takes about 20 minutes to drive from Stromness to Kirkwall. To drive from Stromness to Burwick, at the very southern tip of South Ronaldsay, will take less than 1 hour.

What is phone signal like on Orkney?

Phone signal will vary depending on where you are. I had no signal the entire time I was on Hoy (going from Moaness to Rackwick Bay and the Old Man of Hoy) for instance. I also didn’t have signal on Papa Westray, although thankfully the wifi at my hostel worked great. There were also many areas on the Mainland, like around the Brough of Birsay, where I had no phone signal. I had great signal in Kirkwall and Stromness.

What is the weather like on Orkney?

Winters in Orkney tend to be fairly mild, but summer temperatures are also pretty mild. It was 65˚F (18˚C) and sunny during my day on Westray, and more than one person was complaining about how hot it was. Expect rain and fog regardless of what time of year you visit – although I happened to visit during a week with no rain and warm sunshine every day!! The main thing to prepare for is the wind – Orkney is infamous for its strong winds. In winter, be prepared for gales – the winds here can be strong enough to rip your car door off, so take care.

One thing to be aware of is the daylight hours on Orkney. During my visit at the beginning of June, there was nearly an extra hour or daylight in the morning and in the evening compared to where I live in York. This meant I could spend long days adventuring and exploring! But the reverse is true in winter – daylight hours are short, and it gets dark very early.

When is the best time to visit Orkney?

Well, it really depends on what you’re interested in and what kind of experience you want. The summer months of June, July, and August bring the best weather, long daylight hours, and most frequent transportation routes. Visiting in shoulder season (May and September) is a good choice if you’re wanting a quieter visit. For the best chance at seeing seabirds – including all those adorable puffins! – visit between the end of April and end of July. The winter months see short daylight hours and fewer visitors – ferries run less frequently on their winter timetable, and some attractions are closed for the season.

For me personally, I enjoy hiking, historic sites, and puffins. If you do too, I recommend visiting Orkney in May or June. There are a few local festivals and events that would make for a really special visit, if you can time it right! Here are some top Orkney festivals:

• Orkney Folk Festival – several days of folk music, based primarily in Stromness (end of May)
• North Ronaldsay Sheep Festival – learn about the native seaweed-eating sheep on the island (beginning of August)
• Festival of the Horse and Ploughing Match – a unique contest where young girls dress up in elaborate costumes and young boys try to plough the best line, taking place on the Sands O’Wright on South Ronaldsay (middle of August)
• The Ba’ – a huge street football game in Kirkwall (Christmas Day and New Year’s Day)

How many days do I need to visit Orkney?

I recommend a minimum of 3 days for a trip to Orkney. This will give you time to explore the top highlights of the Mainland, and the Barrier Islands and South Ronaldsay. However, 5 days are preferred if you’re wanting to visit any other islands, such as Hoy. While Hoy can be done as a daytrip, it’s a lot of walking to see the Old Man of Hoy – and there’s quite a bit to see on the southern part of the island, too.

Ideally, I’d recommend 7-8 days to fully enjoy Orkney. This will give you time to explore the Mainland fully, visit the Barrier Islands and South Ronaldsay, head over to Hoy, and visit one or two of northern islands, like Westray and Papa Westray. If you’re not pressed for time, two full weeks would be excellent. You should be able to see most of the islands (the above plus Rousay, Sanday, Shapinsay, and Stronsay, for example) in this time.

I spent 8 days visiting Orkney. While I felt like it was “enough” time to do the major things on my itinerary and bucket list, I did feel like I missed out on other things. I didn’t visit Rousay or Sanday, which I would really wish I’d had more time for. Don’t try to rush your time on Orkney. Which brings me to my next point…

Can I visit Orkney as a daytrip?

Yes, you can visit Orkney as a daytrip. However, I can only condone visiting Orkney for one day if this is your only trip to Scotland, and you never intend to return to the country for the rest of your life. Visiting Orkney for one day is, simply put, an injustice. Yes, you can see some of the top attractions – Kirkwall, Skara Brae, the Ring of Brodgar, etc. But you won’t get a real feel for Orkney, and you certainly won’t be able to immerse yourself in the islands on a single day.

What should I do about money on Orkney?

There are no ATMs on some of the smaller islands. Neither Westray nor Papa Westray has an ATM on the island, so if you’re visiting and think you’ll need cash, get cash out before you arrive. The post office on Westray can issue cash back if you need it. Check locally, and don’t just assume there will be an ATM! There are plenty of ATMs in Kirkwall.

Card payments are generally accepted everywhere, including on the ferries and on the northern islands. I rarely use cash these days (one of those side effects of the pandemic, I think) and rely on card payments 95% of the time. I was a bit worried about visiting Orkney – what if I went to these remote places and nowhere took card? That’s not something you should worry about. Pretty much everywhere I went on Orkney accepted card payments.

However, some of the tours I did and the hostel I stayed at on Westray required payment in cash. This was made clear to me at the time of booking, so I knew to be prepared and get out cash in Kirkwall before I left! If in doubt, ask. The only time I needed cash and didn’t know this in advance was on the ferry to Shapinsay. The card machine was broken and we were asked to pay in cash (exact change if possible) – the guy told us this before we boarded. So maybe it’s best to have a small amount of cash with you for situations like this.

Where should I stay on Orkney?

If you’re visiting for a short amount of time (3 days or less), I recommend basing yourself in or around Kirkwall. This will mean most of the places you want to visit will be about equidistant from each other. The other main town, Stromness, is a good base for a trip, too. That being said, the Mainland is easy to get around, so you can really stay anywhere and it won’t be inconvenient. I absolutely recommend staying overnight on at least one other island besides the Mainland. I wild camped almost every night of my Orkney trip – the only accommodation I had booked was on Westray and Papa Westray, and the overnight cabin on the early ferry leaving Stromness.

Can I camp on Orkney?

The Scottish Outdoor Access Code allows wild camping anywhere in Scotland, including on Orkney, provided you leave no trace and use common sense when picking a spot. Only stay one, two, or three nights (absolute maximum), and in small numbers. Don’t camp in enclosed fields or fields with livestock, which is a lot of Mainland Orkney to be quite honest. The coastal areas, and particularly beaches, make for great wild camping spots – if the wind isn’t too bad. It’s easy to leave your car overnight and hike to a camp spot, as the vast majority of car parks don’t have any restrictions on overnight parking.

What should I pack for my trip to Orkney?

Read my Orkney packing guide here! Essentially, you’ll want to bring the same things as for any trip in Scotland: waterproof rain jacket and rain pants, sturdy boots for hiking, and plenty of layers. I recommend binoculars, to make it easier to spot the amazing wildlife on Orkney! I’d also suggest the Orkney Bradt Guidebook – I planned so much of my trip using this book, it really is an amazing resource.

How much does it cost to visit Orkney?

You can read my full Orkney budget guide here! In short, it’ll really depend on what kind of trip you’re taking. My trip was definitely a budget trip, and I wild camped for the majority of it. I splurged on the experiences that meant the most to me, but I made an effort to keep costs low for most other things.

Travel Tips for Visiting Orkney

Be prepared to live island life – it’s more laid back.

Not everything is a huge rush here. Sometimes things take a bit longer. Give yourself extra time and breathing room when you are making plans. The weather can be unpredictable and cause disruptions – heavy rain or strong winds can necessitate plans changing. Ferries or flights can be delayed or canceled. When this happens, be patient and try to go with the flow – it’s just a normal part of life here.

If you are booking inter-island flights (such as the shortest commercial flight in the world, between Westray and Papa Westray), I’d recommend having at least one day either side of your itinerary on the Mainland in case of cancelations. The Barefoot Backpacker got stranded on Papa Westray for three days, due to bad weather, reduced timetables, and covid restrictions! So give yourself breathing room, just in case.

Considering travel insurance for your trip? World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 adventure activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.

Orkney sees a large number of cruise ships tourists, so plan accordingly.

Kirkwall is the busiest cruise port in the UK. I highly recommend visiting top sites like Skara Brae, the Ring of Brodgar, and the Italian Chapel early in the morning or late in the afternoon. But even when I visited Skara Brae right after a coach of cruise ship passengers arrived, I didn’t find it too detrimental to my experience.

There is free and plentiful long-stay parking available.

It won’t be an issue if you’re planning on visiting some of the other islands and leaving your car on Mainland Orkney. There is a very large free car park in Kirkwall, and a car park with spaces on either side of Ferry Road in Stromness for long-stay and overnight parking. It costs £3 per day to park at Kirkwall Airport (island residents get free parking). Besides the airport, I never needed to pay for parking. I also never struggled to find a parking spot – nowhere I went was too crowded.

There are free bathrooms throughout Orkney, particularly on the Mainland.

Don’t worry about needing to find a toilet – or paying for one. There are lots of toilets and every one I went to was free. This is especially important if you are wild camping or sleeping in a van! But have no fear, you’ll be spoiled for choice.

If you are a Historic Scotland or English Heritage member, you can save a lot of money on Orkney.

A lot of the historic sites around Orkney are operated by Historic Scotland. They have a reciprocal arrangement with English Heritage for free entry for members. You can save a lot of money if you have a membership with either of these organizations – I’m an English Heritage member, you can join here! An annual adult membership for Historic Scotland is only £45 for the year, and you can easily make up over half of that money by visiting sites around Orkney. If you go to one or two more sites (such as Edinburgh Castle or Stirling Castle) within the year, you’d easily break even.

If you want to visit Maeshowe, you need to book in advance.

Entrance to Maeshowe Chambered Cairn, one of the top historic sites on Orkney and part of the Heart of Neolithic Orkney UNESCO World Heritage Site, is by guided tour only. You need to book your tickets in advance – and I mean way in advance. They were booked solid for the week I was there, so I missed out. I’d recommend checking their website at least 2-3 weeks before your visit to get a timeslot locked in!

Orkney has incredible opportunities for spotting wildlife.

Seabirds reign supreme here, and it’s one of the best places in Britain for seeing puffins (in my personal, highly researched opinion). You’ll likely see lots of seals, and hopefully dolphins, porpoises, and whales, too. There were orcas in Scapa Flow just days before I got there! The crew member on the ferry to Hoy told me that there was a minke whale following the boat on the crossing just the day before. I saw a sea eagle or a golden eagle (I’m not sure which) stretch its wings on my walk back from the Old Man of Hoy. It’s just… wonderful.

Online Resources for Orkney

Orkney Public Toilets Map – this is a super useful map of all of the public toilets on Orkney. Like I said, you won’t struggle to find one!

Google Maps – there are a lot of areas across the Orkney Islands that don’t have phone signal, so download Google Maps offline before your trip.

Orkney Ferries – if you’re planning on taking the ferry on any inter-island route, Orkney Ferries has all the published timetables, as well as fares.

Orkney Harbour (Cruise Ships) – find out the schedule for cruise ship arrivals on the Orkney Islands Council Harbour Authority website.

Orkney Cetacean Facebook Group – get up to date with whale and dolphin spottings around Orkney! This is meant to be especially good if you’re on the lookout for orcas.

Interested in joining a tour in Orkney? Check out the options below!

My trip to Orkney was one of the most spectacular trips of my life. I don’t think I have ever experienced such genuine daily happiness and joy before. This is an incredible destination, one that needs to be on your bucket list. I did an insane amount of research and prep work before I went, and it was so worth it as I had the best trip of my life. With the right amount of preparation, you can also live out your dreams in Orkney! I hope this post helps in planning your trip to Orkney in Scotland!

Have you been to Orkney before? What are your top travel tips?

You might also like my posts:

The Complete Orkney Guide: An 8-Day Itinerary for the Orkney Islands

How Much Does it Cost to Visit Orkney on a Budget?

What to Pack for a Trip to Orkney, Scotland

Where to See Puffins on Orkney

Hoy, Orkney: Visiting the Old Man of Hoy and Rackwick Bay

A Travel Guide for Papa Westray, Orkney

What to See and Do on Westray, Orkney

The World’s Shortest Commercial Flight: Papa Westray to Westray With Loganair

What You Need to Know About the North Coast 500 in Scotland Before You Go

All of my Scotland posts!

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