The Peak District National Park is one of my favorite places in England. It’s such an incredible place but still so underrated! There are so many awesome spots to visit and it’s always nice to get away from the crowds. Thankfully, there are so many hidden gems in the Peak District and it’s easy to get away from the popular spots. Earlier in the summer, I finally managed to hike the Dragon’s Back—the nickname given to the dramatic ridges Parkhouse Hill and Chrome Hill. Here’s everything you need to know about this hike!

Starting the Hike in Earl Sterndale

There are a few different places to start from to get up Parkhouse Hill and Chrome Hill. I chose to start in the small village of Earl Sterndale. There is free street parking in town, near the church and across from the pub. Unfortunately, the pub (the Quiet Woman) was closed when we were there. If you’re using GPS/sat nav, I’d recommend putting in the pub as the destination. If you put in the village, the directions will take you out on a dead-end road which turns into a track at a farm, forcing you to turn the car around on the edge of a hill. Just so you know 😉

I recommend having a map for this hike, although some of the concession footpaths aren’t marked. You’ll need OS Map OL24 Peak District: White Peak Area. You’ll definitely need sturdy boots, and as with any hike make sure to bring a waterproof rain jacket and plenty of water and snacks! There are some very steep climbs up and steep descents down, so definitely bring hiking poles if you have them. You can check out my full outdoor gear guide for all my recommendations!

Altogether the hike took me 2.5 hours to complete, from leaving the car to getting back to the car. You follow the road out of the village to the B5053, where you turn left. Follow the road until you come to a clearly-marked public footpath. You can take this up to Parkhouse Hill!

Hiking Parkhouse Hill

There are lots of paths around Parkhouse Hill, both skirting around the bottom and going up to the top. We definitely chose to go up to the top to get the view! It’s a very steep climb winding up to the top. But the views were incredible!! Part of why I loved this hike so much was how dramatic the ridges are. This part of the Peak District is beautiful. I loved getting to see both the surrounding green area, and the ridges of the Dragon’s Back.

It’s a very steep descent down from Parkhouse Hill over the top. There were a few parts that were a bit of a scramble! Make sure to take your time and descend safely. If the weather has been bad and the rocks are wet, I would be extremely careful—and maybe not do the hike up to the top. All in all, it took me about 30 minutes from leaving Earl Sterndale to get to the very top of Parkhouse Hill. It’s not a long walk, but it is very steep!

Hiking Chrome Hill

After descending down from Parkhouse Hill, cross the road and follow the path up Chrome Hill. This walk is also a very steep hike up to the top. The views from here were amazing though! I actually think I preferred the view from Chrome Hill over Parkhouse Hill, as you could see the entire dramatic ridgeline. One of my favorite views was part of the way up Chrome Hill, looking back at the tree and Parkhouse Hill’s ridge.

It took me about 25 minutes from the bottom of Parkhouse Hill to get to the top of Chrome Hill. Again, it doesn’t take a long time to hike up, but it’s really steep! Make sure to have some time at the top to enjoy the views. Then it’s another steep descent down Chrome Hill. However, it wasn’t as steep or as scrambly as Parkhouse Hill, which made it easier.

At the far end of Chrome Hill, there are two gates with concession footpaths to take you towards Dowel Dale and the road. They aren’t marked on the map as they aren’t public footpaths, but just follow the arrows and you’ll be fine! After you get to the second gate, follow the footpath to the right. Unfortunately, you have another steep hill to climb! But you can get great photos here of Chrome Hill.

Hiking Back to Earl Sterndale Via Dowel Dale

Follow the concession footpath through Stoop Farm. When you come to the single track road, turn right. Follow the road through Dowel Dale. This valley is really dramatic, with a bit of rocky cliffs! After about 20 minutes, you’ll come to a public footpath with a gate by a tree. Follow this up to the top of the ridge, and through the fields. Eventually, you’ll come through the fields via the public footpath to a road. Turn right and you can follow this all the way back to Earl Sterndale—it took me about 10 minutes walking on the road to get back to the village.

Planning Your Trip

There is very limited public transportation to this part of the Peak District, and I would strongly recommend driving and having your own car for this hike. However, Bus 442 does run from Ashbourne to Buxton and stops at Earl Sterndale. The bus stop is on the main road in Earl Sterndale, right down from the pub. Buxton has a train station, with regular trains to Manchester. I always use Trainline to book train tickets. Buxton is also accessible by bus from Sheffield on Bus 65.

There isn’t anywhere to stay in Earl Sterndale besides large multi-family cottages, however there are lots of options around Buxton and Bakewell. You can search for hostels here, and search for hotels and B&Bs here! You can also sign up to and search accommodation on Airbnb here. Considering travel insurance for your trip? World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 adventure activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.

Hiking the Dragon’s Back ridge in the Peak District was a phenomenal hike. For less than 3 hours, you can get outstanding views from Parkhouse Hill and Chrome Hill! However, it is very steep in places and the constant ascents and descents can be tiring. I loved hiking Parkhouse Hill and Chrome Hill though, and I would definitely go back and do it again!

Would you hike up Parkhouse Hill and Chrome Hill? Do you agree with the “Dragon’s Back” resemblance?

You might also like my posts:

The Peak District: Hope Valley, Castleton, Mam Tor, And More

Plane Wrecks In The Peak District: Hiking To The B-29 Superfortress Wreckage

Exploring The Peak District On The Pure Outdoor Navigation Course

An Evening Hike In The Peak District With Salomon

Eyam: The Peak District Plague Village

My Outdoor Gear Guide For Hiking And Camping In The UK

All of my hiking posts!

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