Papa Westray is one of the smallest inhabited islands in Orkney, the incredible archipelago off the north coast of Scotland. It’s only about 4 miles long, and 1 mile wide at its longest point – but there’s plenty to see here. I made it out to the North Isles and Papa Westray (also known locally as Papay) on my Orkney trip, and I’m so glad I did! Here’s everything you need to know about visiting Papa Westray.

How to Get to Papa Westray

There are two ways to get to Papa Westray: ferry or flight. The ferry pier is at the Bay of Moclett, in the southern part of the island. This is where the main ferry from Kirkwall docks, as well as the foot passenger service from Westray. Note that the only way to get vehicles on/off the island is by winch. The other option is to fly into Papa Westray airport, which is what I did! You can take the shortest commercial flight in the world (more below!) from Westray to Papa Westray, or you can fly from Kirkwall. Flights are with Loganair on their eight-seater planes.

How to Get Around Papa Westray

Papa Westray is a very small island, so if you don’t mind walking you can probably get away without any other form of transportation. The airport is less than 10 minutes’ walk to “town.” There aren’t very many roads (really just the main north-south and east-west roads) and you won’t be able to bring your car onto the island. A great option is to book a tour with Jonathan, the Papay Ranger – he has a van and can take you all over the island, showing off the best sights.

What to Know About Papa Westray

The village shop has limited opening hours, but is open every day besides Sundays. Check the website for the most up-to-date information – but when I was there, it was open from 9-11am Monday-Saturday, and 3:30-5:30pm on Monday/Wednesday/Thursday/Friday. This is the only place to buy food on the island, so don’t miss their opening hours! There is no ATM on the island, so if you need cash for anything, bring it with you. There is a café, Northern Delights Tearoom, near RSPB North Hill. Jonathan, the Papay Ranger, is your go-to for tours of the island – contact him on Facebook/Twitter/Instagram or by email (I messaged him on Facebook to set up my tour). For a cost breakdown of my trip, check out my Orkney budget guide!

What to Do on Papa Westray

Despite its small size, there’s actually quite a lot to do on Papa Westray. I had just about a day and a half on the island, and felt like it was the perfect amount of time for a fast-paced traveler like myself. I could have certainly done with more time though, especially if I’d planned a full-day tour with the Papay Ranger.

Take the Shortest Commercial Flight in the World

I arrived on Papa Westray from Kirkwall (via North Ronaldsay), but departed for Westray. The flight between Papa Westray and Westray is the shortest commercial flight in the world! This flight is what inspired me to visit the North Isles in the first place, and it really was an incredible, bucket-list experience. You can book the flight with Loganair.

Step Back in Time at the Knap of Howar

If you’ve visited Skara Brae and thought that was ancient… get ready to be wowed by the Knap of Howar, which is about 500 years older! It’s the oldest preserved Neolithic settlement in Northern Europe. This is a simply incredible monument!!! It’s free to visit the two stone houses, and you can walk in them, too.

Visit St. Boniface Church

The history at this church, perched on the coast, dates back centuries – to the 8th century, to be precise. While it was restored in the 1990s, the present church was built in the 12th century. You can see a 12th-century Norse hogback grave in the cemetery. The church is used for services and events.

Walk the Papa Westray Coast

Papa Westray is small enough that you can walk the island in a day. I spent a wonderful afternoon walking around the northern half of the island, seeing the seabirds around the RSPB North Hill reserve, and the statue to the great auk on the eastern coast. I started the walk from Holland Farm and the Knap of Howar, before hiking up to the coast and then down the eastern coast to St. Tredwell’s Chapel and back to the hostel. This was 9.6 miles and took me 4 hours, including lots of photo stops and exploring the different sites.

Spot Puffins at the Head of Moclett

One of the best places to see puffins in Orkney – or even the UK? It’s on Papa Westray, at the Head of Moclett. This was where I took my best puffin photos of my entire Orkney trip. I could have stayed for hours watching them on the cliffs. But, duty called and I had to get to the airport to take the world’s shortest commercial flight! The walk from the hostel was about 4.4 miles roundtrip.

Trek to the Ruins at the Loch of St. Tredwell

The Loch of St. Tredwell is the largest body of water on Papa Westray, and it’s also home to the ruins of a small chapel. Jutting out on a short peninsula from the shore, you can walk out to see the ruins of St. Tredwell’s Chapel. It used to be a pilgrimage center in Orkney!

Learn About Arts and Culture at the Kelp Store

The Kelp Store Heritage and Arts Center is housed in an old building on the eastern coast of Papa Westray. The building dates back to the 1800s, but has been restored – it hosts the island archive as well as cultural and craft events. Make sure to stop by and have a look around – there’s no admission charge, but donations are appreciated.

Visit the Museum in Holland Farm

Holland Farm is located between the airport and the hostel, so chances are you’ll be passing by here at some point on your visit. There is a small museum in one of the farm buildings, exhibiting items of past generations at Holland Farm.

Take a Boat Trip to the Holm of Papay

The highlight of my trip to Papa Westray: a boat trip to the Holm of Papay, a small island located just off the coast of Papa Westray! Jonathan, the Papay Ranger, will organize the boat trip for you to land on the island.

I loved getting to see the seals on around the island – there were so many of them!

I traveled with another solo female traveler from my hostel, who had also booked a trip to the Holm of Papay. We had about 2 hours to explore the island, which was plenty of time to walk the loop of it at a leisurely pace. The real highlight is seeing the chambered cairn – you climb down from the hatch on a ladder into the cairn! There is some interesting graffiti inside the cairn, and I crawled around on my hands and knees to get into the other chambers. There is another cairn on the northern part of the island, which isn’t fully excavated. My 3-hour Holm of Papay trip cost £25, which was well worth it.

See Life on a Small Island

One of the most unique experiences for me on Papa Westray was simply walking down the main street. Seeing the village shop, the post office (only open Monday/Wednesday/Friday), the school (which has 4 pupils), the surgery/NHS services at St. Ann’s Kirk, the two gas pumps… all of this is so different to my life, and my experience growing up in a big city. I was so interested in how a small island community operates, and visiting Papa Westray is a great way to learn about that.

Where I Stayed

I stayed at the hostel, Beltane House, for my trip to Papa Westray. My private ensuite room was £43, which was amazing – after a week of wild camping without a shower, I nearly cried! They also have camping bothy accommodation, and a campsite. There’s a large dining room (which turns into the village pub on Saturday nights, apparently) along with a well-equipped kitchen. There is a big community feel here – most people who visit Papa Westray seem to stay here I think! I met some lovely people during my stay, and with the village shop next door it’s the hub of island life. Contact Jennifer to book.

Planning Your Trip

There are very few other accommodation options on Papa Westray. The hostel is the main place to stay, and I really recommend it! If you’re visiting Orkney, I really recommend this Orkney guidebook. I also recommend bringing a pair of binoculars, since there are so many opportunities to spot wildlife. You can read my full Orkney packing guide here.

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Visiting Papa Westray was an extraordinary experience for me. I loved my time on the island, and would jump at the chance to go back. This really is a chance to see a different kind of lifestyle, and I loved it. There’s so much history here, and my short time here really just scratched the surface. I hope this post helps planning your trip to Papa Westray!

Have you visited Papa Westray before? Or traveled to Orkney?

You might also like my posts:

The Complete Orkney Guide: An 8-Day Itinerary for the Orkney Islands

Orkney, Scotland: What to Know Before You Go

What to Pack for a Trip to Orkney, Scotland

How Much Does it Cost to Visit Orkney on a Budget?

Where to See Puffins on Orkney

The World’s Shortest Commercial Flight: Papa Westray to Westray With Loganair

Hoy, Orkney: Visiting the Old Man of Hoy and Rackwick Bay

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